The enigma of Kubu Island

Discover one of Botswana's most mysterious places

Kubu Island has been drawing people to the edge of the Sua Pan for a very long time. Campers, overlanders, photographers, stargazers and travellers in search of something genuinely moving have all made the journey across the salt to this remarkable place, and every one of them comes back with the same look. That particular mix of wonder and quiet that you can't really manufacture. We've seen it many times and it never gets old.



Known locally as Lekhubu, Kubu Island rises from the blinding white of the Sua Pan in a way that stops you mid-sentence. It's a dark, rocky outcrop crowned with ancient baobabs, surrounded in every direction by flat, shimmering salt, and it has no business being as beautiful as it is. When you first catch sight of it across the pan there's a genuine moment of disbelief, followed fairly quickly by the urge to just sit with it for a while.


What you're looking at is the remnant of one of the greatest inland seas Africa has ever known. Around two million years ago, Lake Makgadikgadi stretched across roughly 80,000 square kilometres of the Kalahari basin, bigger than present-day Switzerland, and Kubu was an island within it, surrounded by water deep enough for hippos and vast colonies of nesting waterbirds. 


The fossil guano on its rocks is still there if you know where to look, and the smooth, rounded pebbles along its edges are the old shoreline of that vanished lake, worn down over millennia. It's geology you can actually touch, and once that registers, the scale of what you're standing on is quietly extraordinary.


Ancient sentinels


The baobabs of Kubu Island are something to behold. Some are believed to be up to 4,000 years old, their enormous twisted forms shaped by wind, drought and the slow passage of time in ways that feel almost sculptural. They sprawl and lean and cluster across the granite with the easy confidence of things that have absolutely nowhere else to be, and walking among them you start to understand why people have always been drawn to this place. 


Researchers have found evidence that some of these trees went through a remarkable growth surge around 1,500 years ago, suggesting the pan held water again long after the great lake had gone, a brief fertile window in an otherwise arid story. That they're still here, still thriving in one of the most demanding landscapes on the continent, says something rather wonderful.


Sacred ground


Kubu has been a place of deep human significance for thousands of years. The San people knew it well, and the broader Makgadikgadi region holds archaeological evidence of Stone Age communities that navigated and inhabited these landscapes long before recorded history. 


Stone walls on the island's southern side date back to the great Zimbabwean empire, and the surrounding pans have yielded ancient tools, fossilised bones and remnants of early Iron Age settlement. For the community of Mmatshumo, whose Gaing-O Community Trust manages and protects the island today, Kubu remains a sacred site, a dwelling place of ancestral spirits where people have gathered for generations to honour their ancestors. That spiritual dimension is something you feel when you're there, whether or not you arrive knowing about it. It's in the quality of the silence and the weight of the place, in the way it holds your attention without asking anything of you.


That night sky


Ask anyone who has spent a night at Kubu what they remember most and the answer is almost always the sky. With no light pollution for hundreds of kilometres in any direction and the white salt pan reflecting everything back upward, the stars here aren't just visible, they're overwhelming. 


The Milky Way stretches overhead with a clarity that tends to stop conversation entirely, and on a full moon night the light bouncing off the pan is bright enough to cast shadows on the salt. It's the kind of thing that sounds like an exaggeration until you're sitting out there with the baobabs silhouetted against the stars and the silence settled comfortably around you. Then it makes perfect sense.


Come with us


As Makgadikgadi specialists, Kubu Island is very much our home territory. We know the seasons, the light and the kind of unhurried pace that lets a place like this actually sink in. We weave it into broader Makgadikgadi expeditions and build dedicated journeys around it, always with the care and local knowledge it deserves. If Kubu Island isn't on your Botswana itinerary yet, let's change that. Talk to our team and we'll start putting something together.



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